Goals

So the weather is still pretty miserable in St. Louis these days. I can’t remember the last time I saw completely dry ground. The worst part is that it is prime bouldering season and I haven’t been able to take an outside trip since New Years. On the upside though, I have been getting to the climbing gym a ton and will hopefully be in prime condition for the Gateway Boulder Bash 2010. This is the annual bouldering competition at Upper Limits (the gym where I climb). Last year I competed in the intermediate category and placed 3^rd in the men’s division. This year I am gonna try my hand at the advanced category (Elite is the highest division). Last year there were about 25 guys competing in advanced, but I have heard that there aren’t as many competitors this year. Either way, my goal is to finish in the top half of the advanced men’s. Well, my goal is actually to place in the top 5, but I would be happy with a top half finish. I know some of the people competing in advanced, but once I know everyone that is competing I will have a better gauge…unfortunately that won’t be until I get there for the comp. My friend Andrew is also competing in advanced this year after not competing last year. Anyway, the competition is next Saturday, February 13. Wish me luck….I will need it!

Speaking of goals and climbing…I never made an official resolution at the beginning of the year. It’s been on my mind lately though, so here it goes.

Before the end of 2010 I want to:

- be flashing V5 on a semi-regular basis

- climb V6 fairly consistently

- have at least five V7s under my belt

- have at least two V8s under my belt (one of them being Numerical Methods)

- have a V9 that I am projecting

I also have a couple of sport climbing goals, but I’m really not as worried about these since my main focus really isn’t on roped climbing:

- Finally red-point Flingin’ Hog (5.11a)

- Climb a route in each of the 5.10 grades I haven’t yet climbed (5.10c and 5.10d)

- Climb in the 5.11 range regularly (5.11a – 5.11d)

These are all some pretty lofty goals...but that's the point right? Anyway, in order to help myself reach some of these goals, I have another goal of getting myself into shape. Besides my regular time at the gym (which I'm trying to increase a bit...4 days a week, minimum), I will be doing core strength workouts twice a week, hangboard workouts twice a week, and I'm going to really try to get back into doing some yoga or pilates. If I do all of this on a regular basis...my climbing will definitely see an improvement.

Another one of my goals for this year is to really dive into the whole photography thing. I believe I mentioned in an earlier post that I got a Nikon D3000 dslr (same as my sister....but I got mine first!). I have been wanting to get into photography for a while now, and now is my chance. Below are some of my photos from Jazz at the Bistro where I work.

Above: The Bad Plus, January 6, 2010

Above: Vijay Iyer Trio, January 20, 2010

Lou Donaldson Quartet, February 3, 2o10

Tonight I went to the St. Louis Symphony Orchestra to hear Beethoven's 3rd Symphony, the "Eroica." It was quite good. This is the second time I've been to the symphony, but since I get free tickets from my friend Marc, I need to take advantage of the opportunity more often.

So I started this post earlier today, and wouldn't you know it....the ground is now covered in a snowy/slushy/soon to be icy mix. I'm getting sick of this crap, so Janet and Jim...I'm coming to visit!

Arkansas Part 2

So where was I? Oh yes, Day 2. I won't go through all the details, but Thursday was a nice day. It was still a little wet, but climbable. I started off the day working on Fraziac (V6) again. It still didn't go though. After that we headed over to watch Wayne and some other people try an awesome highball problem called Grand Dragon (V7). Unfortunately Wayne didn't quite finish it, so we moved around the corner to Numerical Methods (V8). I actually made most of the moves, which was pretty encouraging, but I never really gave it a solid effort because I was trying to save my strength for Razor's Edge (V5). I'm really looking forward to getting back and really putting some time into Numerical Methods...I really think I can climb it if I get just a bit stronger. That would be a big jump in grade, which would be crazy...but it's all subjective anyway. I then went and got some new beta on Razor's Edge, so I put some work into that, but still didn't get it. So the day was still pretty fruitless when it came to sending problems, but I got a lot of good work in anyway. That night we went back to the barn to slackline and start the New Years celebration. We definitely had a good time and eventually went back to the cabins for our traditional New Years dance party and midnight celebration. Friday was the best day the whole weekend. It was a decent temperature and all of the rocks were dry! I went out with a goal of doing 3 V5s in a day: Even Dirtier, Razor's Edge, and Momento. I went to Even Dirtier first and got it after about 4 attempts. This was my 2nd V5 ever, so I was pretty happy. We then went over to Razor's Edge and I gave it about 6 solid tries, but just couldn't quite get it. It involves getting a REALLY high right foot and I just wasn't flexible enough that day to get it, but it will go next time. After that I went over to Momento and gave that a few goes, but I'm still not really ready for that one. It is only one foothold that is keeping me from doing it, but it is TOUGH! After that I got a problem called Alabama Ahead (V4) after a couple of tries and called it a day. Once again we pasted the evening hours in the barn slacklining. By this time, I had gotten pretty much all of my slackline ability back, so I was trying some new tricks. My friend Evan is an incredible slackliner, so he was teaching me a few moves. Sometime this spring when it gets warmer I'll put up a video of me doing some slacklining (there is also a little bit in the video posted below).

On Saturday, we woke up to some frigid temps, but bundled up and hit the rocks anyway. Most of the group had left either the day before or in the morning, so there was just a few of us going out today. We headed to a boulder called Slopin' Joe to warm up and try a couple of classic problems. I think this is me on a problem called Slopadon Milosevic (V5). It is the classic problem of the Slopin' Joe boulder, but it was a bit out of my league. After this, we headed over to the Undertow boulder to try Hang Ten (V7). It was an awesome problem and I ended up getting all the moves but one. I'm definitely looking forward to going back to that problem when I'm a bit stronger...I think it will go! That night we ended up staying in Evan's group's cabin after yet another night of slacklining. Unfortunately, we woke up to this:
Needless to say, climbing that day was out of the question, so we got an early start home. The roads ended up being terrible, but we only came close to dying once and wrecking about 3 times... But yeah, the first 2 hours of the drive, the roads were pretty bad, but after Springfield, MO, the weather cleared up. So in the end, the trip was AWESOME! It wasn't the most successful, climbing-wise, but otherwise, I met a lot of great people, caught up with old friends, and had a ton of fun!

So I guess this did sort of end up being a play-by-play...but oh well.
Andrew and I have tried going climbing outside the past two weekends, but the weather in the area has been wet, wet, wet. Hopefully we can get outside this Sunday, but we'll have to wait and see.

Anyway, sorry for the length, but here's a video wrapping up the week in Arkansas....enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7aqVdJKQ54

Top 25 Films of the Decade

1. There Will Be Blood
2. Moulin Rouge
3. The Dark Knight
4. Let The Right One In
5. Gladiator
6. The Lord of the Rings – The Two Towers
7. Love Actually
8. Cloverfield
9. Sin City
10. Closer
11. Casino Royale
12. The 40-Year Old Virgin
13. No Country for Old Men
14. Match Point
15. The Wrestler
16. Brokeback Mountain
17. City of God
18. 4 Months, 3 Weeks, 2 Days
19. Atonement
20. The Diving Bell and the Butterfly
21. Avatar
22. Zodiac
23. Old School
24. Rocky Balboa
25. Gone Baby Gone

Devin on Film

Top Ten Films of 2009

1.) Avatar

2.) Inglourious Basterds

3.) Whatever Works

4.) Up

5.) An Education

6.) Up in the Air

7.) Star Trek

8.) I Love You, Man

9.) Zombieland

10.) The Hurt Locker

Worst Films of 2009

1.) Thirst

2.) A Christmas Carol

3.) Pandorum

4.) New York, I Love You

5. ) Saw VI (didn't actually see it, but I can't believe these are actually still getting made)

Biggest Disappointment

Invictus